by Brian Garrido | Jun 25, 2024 | People, Q&A
An Indiana native, chef Sean Richardson became obsessed with food in his late teens while working his first high-volume line cook job in Fort Wayne, Ind. Richardson eventually opened The Golden in Fort Wayne with chef Aaron Butts and was a James Beard Award semi-finalist for Best Chef Great Lakes in 2017. After years of discovery and honing his craft, Richardson opened Rune Restaurant in March 2024. His focus is to bring his guests an elevated yet approachable dining experience. He describes his approach as “loud with big flavors, a bit chaotic, technical when it needs to be, but never fussy, and always delicious.”
What made you want to become a chef?
I love food. Realizing that this passion could take me around the world working in kitchens and with like-minded people was the catalyst. Learning how to take raw ingredients and transform them through the vast techniques that exist is what continues to push me every day.
What is your favorite type of food and why?
Anything that is cooked low and slow – soups, stocks, stews, braised meats. The flavors that can be brought out from a few simple ingredients and time never fail to leave me in awe of cooking.
Where do you get your inspiration?
Mainly from the food that is available. I certainly turn to books (old and new), as well as to other restaurants and chefs that I think are pushing harder than I am – they keep me on my toes, as I am naturally a competitive person. When I go out to eat in other cities and get to experience what it is that they are doing or experimenting with, it immediately inspires me to get back to the kitchen and cook.
What is your favorite thing to make for yourself and your family?
Tacos. I love them and feel pretty certain I could eat tacos every single day.
If you could eat anywhere in the world, where would that be, and what would you eat?
Right now, the answer to this question is Mon Lapin in Montreal, Canada. I would order the entire menu.
If you could choose a favorite place in Indiana to visit, where would that be, and what would you eat?
Milktooth in Indianapolis. The food is always fun and delicious, and it never seems out of place. But, to be fair, I have not done a great deal of exploration in Indiana lately. So, I am sure there are brilliant places that have popped up over the past couple of years that I should have my eye on.
What items are always in your fridge?
Chili Crisp, Hellmann’s Mayonnaise, a variety of cheeses, oat milk and orange
juice because recently my kids have been obsessing over it.
by Brian Garrido | Jun 25, 2024 | Places, Featured Destinations
Along the eastern banks of the lower Wabash River, a natural border between the states of Indiana and Illinois, sits the historic town of Vincennes. With a population just under 17,000, the community offers a cultural wallop as the birthplace to entertainer Red Skelton, the George Rogers Clark National Historical Park, Indiana’s first public university, Vincennes, and, the site of the state’s oldest settlement. Named after a notable European fur trader in 1732, Vincennes boasts a delicious dining scene, too.
Begin the food trip with caffeine and a housemade breakfast sandwich at Impressed Coffee Company on the Hallmark movie-like Main Street. Plenty of seating allows guests to sip java to fuel their stroll through the impressive George Rogers Clark NHP and the classical-style memorial building with Doric columns and dome. It’s the perfect old-school Revolutionary War experience with heroes carved in granite and bronze. Travelers can even saunter across the Lincoln Memorial Bridge to the neighboring state and time zone.
Then, it’s an easy promenade down the road, lined with retail shops, overflowing flower baskets suspended from faux-luminaires and aromas from neighboring bakeries, to Jenna’s Bakehouse and Pea-Fections. At the first location, Jenna Simmons opened in 2022 with sumptuous housemade goods. A family affair, the baker, her mom and aunt run the female-centered operation. A few doors down, Becky and Bob Pea own the latter, which has served and catered the community for nearly 30 years. Diners feast on artisan breakfast, lunch and desserts in a Midwest eatery while shopping for confectionary supplies.
Head across the street where longtime friends Mike Murawski and Will Peppers operate Frank’s, named after the former’s grandfather. Started as a food truck, the brick and mortar launched on Thankgiving 2021. Alumnus of the Vincennes University culinary program, they call the establishment a “smokehouse” using Indiana grown beef, butchered at Dewig’s Meats in Haubstadt. The partnership grind their meats daily in their burgers and braises. It’s best to get there on the early side as they sell out of many of their items. However, the Chupacabra, a hefty ground patty, provides a spicy repast, topped with a jalapeno popper dip-like sauce and fried jalapenos. Cut to order and piping hot, well-seasoned fries served in a brown bag, make the meal complete.
And, for good measure, it’s a five-minute waddle to the Red Skelton Museum of American Comedy, a not-to-be-missed attraction. A star of the golden days of the Hollywood studio system, Skelton, born in Vincennes in 1913, was a master entertainer who started in vaudeville, and one of the few who made the leap to movies and TV. The collection, donated by his family, provides artwork and commentary on his years in the spotlight. At one time, his paintings allegedly made Skelton more money than his television variety hour, which ran for a decade.
Ultimately, Vincennes provides delicious dining against an engaging covert backdrop of Indiana history.
by Brian Garrido | Jun 14, 2024 | Places, Featured Destinations
Shelbyville, known more for pristine farmland than as a food destination, offers delicious surprises while providing a healthy dose of Hoosier history. Situated where the Big Blue and Little Blue rivers converged, the town has the distinction of being the one-time home to Indiana’s first railroad transporting passengers and goods to Indianapolis, 30 miles northwest.
The downtown serves as the cultural and culinary center of the city with restaurants, shops, annual festivals and the location of the area’s farmers’ market. A picturesque elliptical-shaped city center, redeveloped in 2022, allows locals and visitors to hobnob together while enjoying the walkable destination.
The Cow Palace, a dining institution for residents and the curious traveler for 40 years, can’t be missed. The charming barn-shaped signage alone beckons, and a menu of sundaes, sandwiches and breakfasts doesn’t disappoint. Indeed, the ice cream concoctions are meals unto themselves. It’s also the former site of the home of 19th century author Charles Major. Born in Indianapolis, Major relocated to Shelbyville, and many of Major’s novels were set in this community, including the notable Bears of Blue River. Head over to the Joseph Fountain, a 1923 refurbished landmark, and view the sweet bronze statue that features the book’s protagonist, Little Balser, and his two pet bears.
If you didn’t gorge on dairy at Cow Palace, perhaps Just Peachy Cafe, opened by Charity Elliot in 2019, provides a tasty stop. Exposed brick walls, Americana and a 1950s bike decorate the space but the menu features plenty of sandwiches, soups and homemade pastries, cakes and desserts. A Purdue graduate, Elliot features a sophisticated take on restaurant stalwarts such as the vegan burger on flatbread or the grilled cheese your way with combinations of feta, provolone, roasted red peppers. Diners can even find gluten-free bread and brownies baked on premise.
Not to be missed though may be Pudder’s, a family-owned bar and restaurant that features live entertainment on the weekends, and upstairs, Blessing’s Opera House, a special event venue which has been at 18 Public Square since 1869. The unassuming restaurant, purchased by Bryan and Kim Rice in 2022 and named after a previous owner’s grandkids, offers tin-clad ceilings and an expansive dining area in a three-story cast iron historic building. While the menu features straightforward bar fare, there are surprises such as a bacon jam burger, mozzarella sticks, hand-cut from a “big cheese block” and revelatory onion rings. (“We dip them three times,” says Bryan Rice, “first in the wet, then the dry and back to the wet.”)
The second floor features the historic Blessing’s Opera House. By appointment, peruse the antique exposed brick walls, with some of the original 19th century plaster and murals.
Other notable Shelbyville stops include the Grover Center Museum & Historical Society, which celebrates the county’s history, and the Skyline Drive-in movie theater, which shows current films and offers an extensive concession stand menu. Just outside of town on I-74, the Horseshoe Casino offers plenty of gaming, dining and live thoroughbred and quarter horse racing.
by Brian Garrido | May 30, 2024 | Places, Featured Destinations
Greencastle, a quaint town in Putnam County with a population of just under 10,000 and home to DePauw University, is a hidden gem for food enthusiasts. Its dining scene is a delightful blend of regional charm and diverse culinary experiences. While students might opt for the convenience of fast food chains, the town’s alumni, professors and locals are drawn to the unique flavors of its independent eateries.
Chef Sal Fernandez, a recent James Beard semi-finalist who cooked under notable chef Brandon McGlamery (Bay Area’s The French Laundry, Delfina and Chez Panisse), oversees the cuisine at Bridges Craft Pizza & Wine Bar, a sophisticated pie and vine experience. Located in a beautifully restored historic building, the restaurant offers wood-fired artisan crusts with a blend of toppings. From classic Margherita to creative creations like the BBQ chicken with rhubarb and pickled ramps, the menu caters to various tastes, including pasta and meat lovers. Additionally, oenophiles will surely be pleased as they peruse the impressive wine list from domestic and international vineyards.
BreadWorks by Bridges, another standout in Greencastle’s food scene (and also from the Bridges group), offers a richly textured and surprising European experience in America’s heartland. The artisanal bakery and café bakes fresh goods in a French-inspired space with an amusing art piece of dangling rolling pins in the foyer. Bread made daily ranges from rustic sourdoughs to hearty whole grains, along with a mighty American pastry selection like Danishes, apple fritters, muffins and a doughnuts ranging from glazed to long Johns. BreadWorks also offers a range of sandwiches, soups and salads. A second location can be found in Indy’s South Broad Ripple area and offers a selection of breakfast bowls, burritos and sweet confections.
Greencastle boasts other dining options that provide a more Midwest eating approach. At the 30-plus-year-old Almost Home, located in the square, owner Gail Smith and her chefs serve up delicious American fare with an international flavor twist. Not to be missed are the house-made potato chips smothered in gorgonzola, buffalo hot sauce and scallions and the Putnam County pork burger featuring locally sourced meat.
Whiskey lovers Tosh and Joel Everson opened The Whisk in 2021 and serve more than 200 bourbons from around the world, including some distilled locally. Head over to its IG page, where Tosh recites the specials and discusses the featured whiskey along with its $5 pours. The Whisk also offers small plates, weekend brunch and Friday night dinner specials.
The dining scene in Greencastle is rich with character and flavor, with a warm community spirit that helps define the city’s approach to dining.
by Brian Garrido | May 30, 2024 | People, Q&A
Former NFL Skycam operator and cameraman Jeffrey Miner began crafting Detroit-style pizza as a hobby during the pandemic and selling them at various pop-ups throughout Indianapolis. Quickly, he amassed a following for Sam’s Square Pie, creating lofty, doughy pies with crisp, browned cheese edges, baked in rectangles and served in squares.
Even before opening his three-month-old shop on Indy’s eastside, Miner had already won awards at the International Pizza Expo, an annual event in Las Vegas that draws legions of fans and entrepreneurs. In 2023, he came in fifth in the World Pan Division, and in March of this year, just before opening, he baked into second. Today, Sam’s Square Pie is a friends and family affair. His teen son, Miles, assists in the kitchen, chef Karyn Lander (of Purely Joy in Indy) works in the front, and his late brother, DJ Indiana Jones, looks over it all from a painting.
What made you want to become a chef?
I decided on becoming a pizzaiola after experimenting with pizza dough during the pandemic. As a child and throughout my life, I used to be able to eat an insane amount of pizza.
What is your favorite type of food and why?
My favorite type of food is probably Mexican because the ingredients are mostly fresh and full of lots of flavor.
Where do you get your inspiration?
I get inspired through music, art and culture. Through those, you meet the best people and the source of inspiration.
What is your favorite thing to make for yourself and family?
I like cooking breakfast for my family. It’s the first part of the day, and everyone is fed to begin their day. I like a breakfast casserole topped with avocado, maybe a side of chorizo gravy and fresh biscuits.
If you could eat anywhere in the world, where would that be and what would you have?
If I could eat anywhere in the world, I’d say Spain with a giant paella full of local fresh ingredients. [Here at home,] I really want to visit Bonge’s Tavern and try one of their famous dishes, plus tailgate in the parking lot!
What items are always in your fridge?
Eggs, oat milk and lots of free space, since I’m rarely home!
